The Honda Owners Club

hi all,ive just got the above and it needs alot of work doing(hoping someone can help),when i picked it up it did run but only on sounded on 1 cylinder ,very lumpy
so wandering what process i should do to start the restoration ,ive ordered a few parts to start with
new plugs
new ht leads and coil
rectifier
choke cable(as was missing)
air filter ( old one fell apart in my hands)


there are no pads (front)
and master cylinder looks a tad suspect as no fluid in

gear box seems fine
ive checked the oil and that seem fine

im trying to get her started 1st before i go to far cosmetic wise.
is there anything else??as i have been out of bikes for 20 years and thought this would be a good project to start again
the bike has been stood for 10 years in a garage and i would like to try to get a mot on her

Hi ,

You've no doubt read my threads(s) regarding my 2 versions of the dream 250/400 and I would advise you to check the swing arm as illustrated in my thread, for corrosion. Also ,Gus will want to warn you about the wheel rivets (its as well to check). best of luck and post some photies
of your progress ,there's a few " dreamers " on here and most seem to think they are good bikes although I found the 250 a bit slow ,hence the 400 saga !.

WILT

If the air filter was that poor then chances ar ethere is muck in Carbs so strip and clean before starting engine further. Oil change immediately and again after any rebuild to clear out and dislodged debris.

Dibble wrote:If the air filter was that poor then chances ar ethere is muck in Carbs so strip and clean before starting engine further. Oil change immediately and again after any rebuild to clear out and dislodged debris.

yes thanks for the advice
here is what ive done so far just trying to get the mot,will be putting it in next week

new plugs
new coil& ht leads
new air filter
new oil & filter (i had a hell of a job getting old oil bolt out of the sump,took me 1 week of penetrating oil ,hitting sockets onto nut a couple of mm smaller, and still rounded bolt,brought special sockets that get tighter on bolt but still no luck,thought im going to have to smash oil sump cover off and get a new one,then last resort ground off with angle grinder which worked
anyway the black tar that came out made it worth while
new brake pads front
new master cylinder(2nd hand off ebay that still leaked) so have ordred brand new
new headlight(2nd hand)
new 2nd hand exhaust
grab rails
flasher unit
rectifier
stripped down carbs to clean
cleaned tank & petrol filter
new right hand switch gear(2nd hand)
2nd hand side panels

and i fixed all the dodgy wiring
after all this the only thing that might be a problem for the m.o.t is the front forks which are a tad pitted but dont look to be leaking yet ,might be ok for m.o.t(im hoping) then once on road i can try to find new
any input would be good
ive given the side panels a coat of paint to make look half decent
again once on the road i am going to gradually take bits apart revamp then fit back on.
got her running pretty well ,nice and smooth on tick over

New fork tubes can be had here:
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/

but you may like to sit down first. (Still cheaper than from Honda, if they can be had from them.......)

Rechroming forks is not the same as rechroming other parts. They have to be stripped etc. rechromed, then reground back to the correct dimensions. It's not something 'chrome platers' do, it's really an engineers job. Enquire around, but I think it would work out rather more expensive. rechroming forks is often done when new ones cannot be found for any price.

Here's just one website:
http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/fork-rechroming.php
http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/fork-regrinding.php
http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/price.php

hi all,as you may of read my fork stanchions are pitted and have been looking around for new etc,
i have the chance to get a pair of brand new stanchions but they are for a cx500,
the sizes as follows honda cx 500 = 33mm x 582mm
honda cb250n= 33mmx 581mm
so cx is 1mm longer
do you think they would fit???

I doubt if 1 mm extra height at the headstock would alter the trail significantly but the spring rates and damping may be different.You could maybe use the 250N springs and and damper tubes.
You seem to be making a great job of the restoration .Incidentely I have a spare set of 250 forks that have slight pitting on the stanchions . and your welcome to them for £20 but its best you see them first .I could maybe take some detailed photos if your bothered . Another tricjk might be to fit gaitors as long as the pitting isn't causing fluid to leak through the seals. The 250
I have was fitted with gaitors possibly for this reason or to protect from it happening in the first place..

WILT

HI again just thought i would write to say it passed a m.o.t
with a few adviserys
1 front tyre very old(but still has tread)
2 front forks pitted ( but no leaks)
3 bent front foot peg


ive done the tyre and the footpeg


another small problem is that it ticks over nice and smooth but when open throttle sharply it coughs and splutters a bit then picks up(with the rare backfire)
if i open the throttle nice and slow its fine
ive cleaned carbs,new plugs,ht leads and coil,cleaned fuel filter,new air filter,checked rubber carb /air intake rubbers
seems when i have choke out its a bit better
any ideas would be gratefull

Adjust to slightly richer mixture on the carb settings that will in effect be like having the additional choke setting your riding on.

If the CX forks are that similar then try dropping the yokes down the tube by extra 1mm that will keep the settings for rake etc.

hi all,an update since last
i got hold of another set of carbs and still the same symptoms,
but ive now done as previous post and these bits as well
tested battery and reads 11.5v when standing
and 14.5v on tickover so im thinking generator ok
fitted new neutral switch
noticed in haynes manual that the breather from rocker cover should feed into air filter box so ive done that
new throttle cables
set the valves as per manual
adjusted tickover screws in bottom of carbs(manual says 2 turns but i need 3 )
new petcock(fuel tap)
new petrol tank

the results are as follows
now starts from cold with choke on(but a bit lumpy)
twist throttle after that and she is fine and ticks over at 2000revs(with choke still on)
once warm i push choke in and she ticks over at 1200revs nice and smooth so all good so far
take for a spin and all good
but when i turn it off ,leave for 10mins or so it wont start,just turns over on the starter motor with a loud backfire now and again untill battery goes flat
but if i turn her off and then start it within a few mins it starts 1st time
ive done most things now and its getting to me
could it be the starter motor ?? getting to warm?? brushes??
or spark plugs getting to hot??
valves need to be set bigger gap??
all help gratefully received

Changing the carbs will not necessarily solve the problem as they will have been set to run correctly on the bike they were taken from. They will probably need balancing and unless you have the equipment to do this (which from your previous posts suggests you don't) then take the bike to a workshop and have them do it itmay cost you a few quid but you will solve your problem.

Cheers Witch

ok,think ive narrowed problem down to the carbs,does anyone now of a good place to send them to for a refurb as i have a spare set im thinking of getting done
as ive had them apart numerous times and still no joy , will let someone else have a go,