The Honda Owners Club

Just been given a 1980 CB 250 RS with 18k on the clock.

Any tips for a new owner of this sort of bike from you more experienced folk?

Overall, it's in good nick, very little corrosion as it's been kept in a shed for the last 6-7 years since it was last run. Rolled it home, changed the petrol, drained the carb and within 30 secs it was running - and running pretty well!!

Other than a full fluid change (oil, forks and brakes) and a little fettling of a slightly sticky front brake caliper plus new pads and and checking that the tyes are fine (initial visual check is good) can't see a great deal that needs doing to get it MOT'd!! Even the fork seals look ok.

Ay tips very much welcomed!!

Hi,

They're absolute carp, endless problems - tell me where you are and I'll collect it and take it down the scrappie for you, but it'll cost you a pint.










Lucky bar-steward! I had one 20-odd years ago and I'd have another like a shot if I could find one not run into the ground by people using 'em as cheap hacks and treating them accordingly.

The biggest problem with 'em is people thinking they can chuck any old cheapo oil into the engine and it'll last 10,000 miles. Snag is, unlike most other Hondas, the RS has a laughable oil capacity, the only filtration is a gauze about the size of a postage stamp (Brit. bikes 20 years older had bigger filters (albeit still gauze )), ball and roller big-end and main bearings - which look at normal multigrade oil and laugh - coupled with Honda's cheapo camshaft-direct-in-head 'bearings'. Even Honda seem to have had a 'Friday afternoon' over the RS oil change instructions, which were the same as the contemporary Superdream, which had twice the oil capacity, plain bearings everywhere and a proper micropore filter!

Until I made the mistake of putting cheapo oil in, which knackered the big-end shortly afterwards, mine covered something like 20,000 miles on more expensive oil changed every 1,000 miles. If I had one now, particularly one that had only 18k miles on it, and I was using it every day(-ish), I'd run it on synthetic (still 10W/40); only if it was a 'high days and holidays' bike might I use semi-synth.

Another thing I did on my RS was fit Avon AM20 front and AM21 rear tyres, when everyone else I knew with them again used cheapos; the bike would stick to the road wa-a-ay beyond any cornering angle my sphincter could stand. However, strictly speaking, AM20/AM21 were way ott for such a light bike and, now they've been superseded by the 'V'-rated-only AM26, I might have to rethink on any RS I owned today.

I found the (standard 45/40 Honda) headlamp bulb a bit dim for night riding. I was a bit dubious about fitting a 60/55 QH because they generate a lot of heat, the RS headlamp shell is tiny and Honda crammed a lot of wiring in there. However, I found a 60/60 non-QH bulb in Halfords with the standard P45t fitting, and that was a great improvement.

Finally, as standard, these RS were fitted with a skinny 5/8" x 1/4" (520) chain and a rather poor cush drive in the rear wheel, which means they tend to go through even 'O'-ring chains inordinately quickly for such a light bike with not a huge power output. On the later electric-start RS, Honda both fitted a better cush-drive and a 530 (5/8" x 3/8") chain; if you can find one, the rear wheel from the RS-D is a straight swap and/or 530 chain-'n'-sprocket kits to fit the RSA (yours) certainly used to be available. Again if I owned one today, I'd also try and fit a Scottoiler or something similar.

Hth.

Regards,

This was my first proper bike, new back in 1981! I've had a couple of less new (worn out) examples since. The things that go are the camshaft (the bearings aren't that great and as has been said, putting the best oil you can afford in will do no harm) Nobody ever cleans the oil filter as it's so inaccessable, so take the time to do that. And changing the oil every 1500 miles without fail is important. More often if it's a short journey or 'Sunday' bike.

The front brake is weak by modern standards and has less power than a well set up drum, so good sintered pads are essential, and the rubber brake pipe swells with age, so a braided one is a good investment.

If it still has the original twin exhausts and you're not after making a show bike, the Motad 2 into 1 replacement is much better as the originals are pretty restrictive and you'll notice the difference in power delivery..

Oh, and if someone gives you an XL or FT 500 engine, it slots straight in (you just have to re-site the regulator)